I have a fun new baby sweater to share with you today! The Lynden baby sweater is squishy and soft, babies and moms will love it!

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This sweater has a unique construction that is great for beginners as well as more experienced crocheters. Best of all, it’s fun and interesting to make! It is worked in vertical rows from side to side, beginning with one sleeve, working across the body and finishing with the other sleeve. No increases or decreases, just chaining!

The bobbles add a lot of texture to this sweater, but of course, you could leave them out to create a different look. Just replace them with hdc’s. But, really, why would you want to leave out the fun? (ha!)

I really love the merino blend that I used for this sweater. Merino wool is my absolute favorite fiber. Do you have a favorite yarn fiber? Is that a thing? Every time I come back to merino, I wonder why I ever use anything else…it has a soft texture without compromising stitch definition and just makes the crochet stitches look really beautiful. I always feel a little spoiled when I use merino. It is pricey, but the good thing is that you only need 2 skeins for this sweater. So you can give yourself a treat and if you’re giving this as a gift, guaranteed the recipient will swoon!
For this project I used Knit Picks limited edition Sock Labs Stroll yarn in Tangerine and Tangerine Speckle. It’s a fingering weight yarn and I used two strands held double (one in each color). It is 75% merino and 25% nylon. The nylon gives the yarn a really nice structure. I definitely feel the stability of the sweater with that added bit of nylon. It has a nice little spring back when you stretch it, exactly what you want in a baby sweater.

This sweater fits babies approximately 6-12 months, but I have more sizes in the works! What other sizes would you like to make? Let me know in the comments!
General Instructions: This gender neutral baby sweater is simple and fun to make due to its unique construction. It is worked in vertical rows from one side to the other, starting with one sleeve, proceeding across the body, and finishing with the other sleeve. The button band is added last with optional buttons and buttonholes.

Supplies: Size H/8 (5.0mm) crochet hook (or size needed to obtain gauge), yarn needle, 3 stitch markers, ruler, sewing needle and thread to match buttons
Materials: #1/fingering weight yarn; 2 skeins Knit Picks Sock Labs Stroll in (1) tangerine and (1) tangerine speckle (75% superwash merino wool, 25% nylon); 924 yards total (yarn is held double throughout); 3 (3/4” diameter) buttons
Gauge: 4”
= 14 hdc and 11 rows, blocked.
To check gauge, ch 15, hdc in 3rd ch from hook and each ch across
(14 sts including ch 2). Row 2: Ch 2, sk 1, hdc in each stitch and top of ch 2.
Repeat second row 9 more times. Finished
swatch should measure 4×4”, blocked. If there are too many sts, use a smaller
hook. If not enough sts, use a larger hook.
Finished Measurements:
Chest circumference: 20”
Height: 12”
Sizing: Fits babies with 17-18” chest circumference (6-12 months)

Abbreviations and Special Stitches
ch: chain
hdc: half double crochet
hdc3lo: half double crochet in the third loop only
hdcblo: half double crochet in the back loop only
rep: repeat
sc: single crochet
st(s): stitch(es)
yo: yarn over
Bobble: Yo, insert hook into next st, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, *yo, insert hook into same st, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook; repeat from * 3 more times, yo, draw through all 6 loops on hook.
Pattern Notes:
- Ch 2 at the beginning of a row counts as 1 stitch.
- Hold one strand tangerine and one strand tangerine speckle throughout.
Want to watch the full video tutorial? I go through the whole pattern step-by-step in this video:
Directions
Cuffs (Make 2) Cut yarn and weave in
loose ends for one cuff, set aside. Do not cut yarn for second cuff, proceed
with first sleeve.)
Ch 11.
Row 1: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and ea ch across, turn. (10)
Row 2: Ch 2, sk 1 hdc, hdc3lo in ea st across, hdc in top of ch 2, turn.
Row 3: Ch 2, sk 1 hdc, hdcblo in ea st across, hdc in top of ch 2, turn.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until cuff height reaches 6”, ending with a row 3. After completing row 3, turn cuff so you’re working on the long side.
First sleeve
Row 1: Ch 2, work 31 hdc evenly along one long side of cuff, turn. (32)
(Tip: place a stitch marker half way down the row to help with placing stitches evenly.)
Rows 2-3: Ch 2, sk 1 hdc, hdc in ea st across, hdc in top of ch 2, turn.
Row 4: Ch 2, sk 1 hdc, *4 hdc, bobble, sc; rep from * across, hdc in top of ch 2, turn.
Rows 5-7: Ch 2, sk 1 hdc, hdc in ea st across and top of ch 2, turn.
Row 8: Ch 2, sk 1 hdc, 2 hdc, bobble, sc, *4 hdc, bobble, sc; rep from * across, 2 hdc, hdc in top of ch 2, turn.
Rows 9-11: Ch 2, sk 1 hdc, hdc in ea st across and top of ch 2, turn.
Row 12: Ch 2, sk 1 hdc, *4 hdc, bobble, sc; rep from * across, hdc in top of ch 2, turn.
Row 13: Ch 2, sk 1 hdc, hdc in ea st across and top of ch 2, turn.

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Beginning the body
Row 1: Ch 27, turn, hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in ea ch across. Continue hdc in ea hdc of sleeve (58 sts at this point), ch 27, turn.
Row 2: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in ea ch across. Continue hdc in ea hdc until 8 sts remain, 7 hdcblo, hdc in top of ch 2, turn. (84)
Row 3: Ch 2, sk 1, 7 hdc3lo, 2 hdc, *bobble, sc, 4 hdc; rep from * across until 8 sts remain, 7 hdc3lo, hdc in top of ch 2, turn.
Row 4: Ch 2, sk 1, 7 hdcblo, hdc in ea st until 8 sts remain, 7 hdcblo, hdc in top of ch 2, turn.

Row 5: Ch 2, sk 1, 7 hdc3lo, hdc in ea st until 8 sts remain, 7 hdc3lo, hdc in top of ch 2, turn.
Row 6: Ch 2, sk 1, 7 hdcblo, hdc in ea st until 8 sts remain, 7 hdcblo, hdc in top of ch 2, turn.
Row 7: Ch 2, sk 1, 7 hdcblo, bobble, sc, *4 hdc, bobble, sc; rep from * until 8 sts remain, 7 hdcblo, hdc in top of ch 2, turn.
Row 8: Ch 2, sk 1, 7 hdc3lo, hdc in ea st until 8 sts remain, 7 hdc3lo, hdc in top of ch 2, turn.
Row 9: Ch 2, sk 1, 7 hdcblo, hdc in ea st until 8 sts remain, 7 hdcblo, hdc in top of ch 2, turn.
Row 10: Ch 2, sk 1, 7 hdc3lo, hdc in ea st until 8 sts remain, 7 hdc3lo, hdc in top of ch 2, turn.
Row 11: Ch 2, sk 1, 7 hdc3lo, 2 hdc, *bobble, sc, 4 hdc; rep from * across until 8 sts remain, 7 hdc3lo, hdc in top of ch 2, turn.
(Continuing with the back only)
Row 12: Ch 2, sk 1, 7 hdcblo, 34 hdc, turn. (42)
Row 13: Ch 2, sk 1, hdc until 8 sts remain, 7 hdc3lo, hdc in top of ch 2.
Row 14: Ch 2, sk 1, 7 hdcblo, hdc in ea st across and top of ch 2, turn.
Row 15: Ch 2, sk 1, 1 hdc, bobble, sc, *4 hdc, bobble, sc; rep from * across until 9 sts remain, 1 hdc, 7 hdc3lo, hdc in top of ch 2.
(Resuming front of cardigan as well as back.)
Row 16: Ch 2, sk 1, 7 hdcblo, hdc in ea st across, ch 43, turn.
Row 17: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and each ch across, hdc in ea hdc until 8 sts remain, 7 hdc3lo, hdc in top of ch 2, turn. (84)
Row 18: Ch 2, sk 1, 7 hdcblo, hdc in ea st across until 8 sts remain, 7 hdcblo, hdc in top of ch 2, turn.

Row 19: Ch 2, sk 1, 7 hdc3lo, 2 hdc, *bobble, sc, 4 hdc; rep from * across until 8 sts remain, 7 hdc3lo, hdc in top of ch 2, turn.
Row 20: Ch 2, sk 1, 7 hdcblo, hdc in ea st until 8 sts remain, 7 hdcblo, hdc in top of ch 2, turn.
Row 21: Ch 2, sk 1, 7 hdc3lo, hdc in ea st until 8 sts remain, 7 hdc3lo, hdc in top of ch 2, turn.
Row 22: Ch 2, sk 1, 7 hdcblo, hdc in ea st until 8 sts remain, 7 hdcblo, hdc in top of ch 2, turn.
Row 23: Ch 2, sk 1, 7 hdc3lo, bobble, sc, *4 hdc, bobble, sc; rep from * until 8 sts remain, 7 hdc3lo, hdc in top of ch 2, turn.
Row 24: Ch 2, sk 1, 7 hdcblo, hdc in ea st until 8 sts remain, 7 hdcblo, hdc in top of ch 2, turn.
Row 25: Ch 2, sk 1, 7 hdc3lo, hdc in ea st until 8 sts remain, 7 hdc3lo, hdc in top of ch 2, turn.
Row 26: Ch 2, sk 1, 7 hdcblo, hdc in ea st until 8 sts remain, 7 hdcblo, hdc in top of ch 2, turn.
Row 27: Ch 2, sk 1, 7 hdc3lo, 2 hdc, *bobble, sc, 4 hdc; rep from * across until 8 sts remain, 7 hdc3lo, hdc in top of ch 2, turn.

(Beginning the 2nd sleeve.)
Row 1: Ch 2, sk 1, 7 hdcblo, 51 hdc,
turn. (59)
Row 2: Ch 2, sk 1, 31 hdc, turn.
(32)
Row 3: Ch 2, sk 1, 30 hdc, hdc in
top of ch 2, turn.
Continue by repeating rows 4-11 of first sleeve. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail
for sewing on cuff.
Attaching the cuff: Sew long end of cuff to end of sleeve with yarn needle and mattress stitch. Sew approximately two sleeve stitches for every single row of cuff stitches to gather sleeve and make it fit to the cuff. Weave in loose ends. Block sweater according to directions, below.
Sew side seams: Fold sweater right sides together, matching sides and sleeves. Sew with yarn needle and mattress stitch. Weave in loose ends.
Button Band
Row 1: Attach yarn to bottom right front corner of sweater (bottom left front for left handers). Hdc up side of cardigan front, along back neckline, and down other side, turn.
Row 2: Ch 2, sk 1, hdc3lo in ea hdc, turn.
On the wearer’s left, place a st marker 1”, 3”, and 5” up from the bottom edge to mark button hole placement. To make the sweater without buttons, simply omit the ch 1, sk 1 step in row 3.
Row 3: Ch 2, sk 1, hdcblo in ea st to first marker, *ch 1, sk 1, hdcblo to next marker; rep from * twice, hdcblo to end of row, turn.
Row 4: Ch 2, sk 1, hdc3lo to 1st ch 1 sp, *hdc in ch 1 sp, hdc3lo to next ch 1 sp; rep from * twice, hdc3lo to end of row. Cut yarn, weave in loose ends.

Sew on buttons opposite button holes.
Blocking
Blocking is a great way to give your sweater a more refined appearance, great for gift giving! Spray sweater with water until it is slightly damp. Lay flat on a blocking board or other soft surface and gently spread panel to finished measurements. Pin in place and leave to dry overnight. Blocking boards and T pins work great for this but if you don’t have those, you can use several layers of towels and regular sewing pins (make sure they can get wet without rusting).
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You’re all done! I hope you enjoyed this pattern! Please share your photos on Instagram and tag @tealandfinch #lyndenbabysweater. I LOVE to see them!
Want another bobble baby sweater? The Rylan baby sweater is a circular yoke sweater in many sizes, sure to fit anyone on your list!
I love this sweater!! Design, color and style – just beautiful!! Thank you!!!
Thanks Darlene! I’m glad!
Jen,
This sweater is just gorgeous. You have a way with bobbles!
I’d be happy to see toddler sizes, and I know adults would love to wear this sweater as well.
Thank you
Very pretty sweater. I love the color you created by using the two colors of yarn together. Also, that orange is 😍!
Aw, thank you so much!
I’d like to make this sweater for charity but it needs to be newborn or 3 month size. Do you have instructions for these smaller sizes? And what size yarn in a single strand would be the same as your double strand fingering yarn? Thanks
Hi Stephanie! I’m working on expanding that pattern to a lot of sizes, but it’s taking awhile. I hope to have it very soon! Any single strand would work as long as you get the same gauge. You could try a dk and a worsted and see if you get gauge with those.
Hi Jen, I love how this sweater/cardigan is put together and I am going to give it a go shortly. Are you able to give instructions for children 2-12 years? The simplicity of the cardigan is what makes it just gorgeous. Keep up the good work
Hi Chrissy! Thank you so much! I’m working on the larger sizes, I’m not quite sure when it will be ready. Thanks so much for asking!
Amazing!! I love it, you make it seem so easy!
I will try to do it for my son, tell you next time how it went!!