This new baby and kids free crochet sweater pattern is the perfect addition to your little one’s spring wardrobe!
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The textures of this sweater are so pretty. I designed the stitch patterns to be easy to follow and interesting for crocheters of all levels.
This modern sweater is worked from the top down in rows. Simple increases and single crochets are used to create the yoke.
The sleeve separation is fully explained in the video tutorial if you’ve never done one before and aren’t quite sure how it works. Once you see it explained, you’ll totally get it and want to make a dozen sweaters, it’s so easy!
The textured body and sleeves are made from the same pattern combination and include double crochets, half doubles, slip stitches, and puff stitches. I wanted to keep things interesting without being overly complicated. It’s sort of like a “sampler” pattern: you get a little bit of everything.
The circular yoke makes it easy to create short or ¾ length sleeves, perfect for any season. If you use cotton yarn, the short sleeves would make an adorable summer top for layering. Or make it 3/4 sleeves to go over a spring or fall dress. There are so many possibilities!
Plus, if you’re new to crochet or just want some help along the way, there’s a full length, step-by-step video tutorial! In the tutorial, I’m making the 3 month size, but the steps are the same for all sizes. Watch it here:
Testers loved this sweater! Check out what they had to say:
I love the different textures the sweater features, and I love how well-written the pattern is. ~Larianne
I like the variety of beautiful stitches ~Jessica
It is very easy to make. ~Laura
I like the stitches, simple yet so effective. ~Holly
The Aunalie Baby and Kids Sweater Pattern
Download the PDF on Etsy or Ravelry.
Supplies: size 7 (4.5mm) crochet hook (or size needed to obtain gauge), 3/4” button (1), ruler, tapestry needle, sewing needle and matching thread for button.
Yarn: Worsted #4; 316 (378, 433, 471, 527, 625) Yards (refers to ¾ length sleeve option); Knit Picks Comfy Worsted (cotton/acrylic) shown in photos.
Gauge: 4” x 4” = 16 stitches / 16 rows in sc
For accurate sizing, make a gauge swatch before you begin your sweater.
Directions for gauge swatch:
Ch 17
Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and each ch across, turn (16 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in ea st, turn.
Repeat row 2 until you reach a total of 16 rows (including row 1).
Swatch should measure approximately 4” across and 4” down. If swatch is too small, try again with a larger hook. If swatch is too big, try again with a smaller hook.
Sizing
Finished chest circumference: 19 (20, 21, 22, 24, 26) inches
Ease: 2-3”
Suggested sizing: 3 months (6, months, 12 months, 18 months, 2T, 4T)
To find the right size, measure child’s chest and add 2”. Make the size with the finished circumference closest to this number. Model is a petite 4 year old wearing size 2T.
Abbreviations and Special Stitches
ch: chain
dc: double crochet
hdc: half double crochet
inc: increase (2 sc in same st)
rep: repeat
sc: single crochet
sk: skip
sl st: slip stitch
st(s): stitch(es)
yo: yarn over
Bead stitch: Skip one st, dc in next st, puff in st skipped (crossing over dc just made); 1 bead stitch made
Puff stitch: Yo, Insert hook in st skipped, pull up a loop to level of work (3 loops on hook), (yo, insert hook in same st, pull up a loop) 2 more times – 7 loops on hook. Yo, draw through all loops on hook.
Pattern Notes
- Ch 1 at the beginning of a row does not count in stitch count.
- Turn at the end of each row.
- When measuring yoke height, lay sweater flat so it forms a semi-circle. Find the approximate back center (back neck) of the sweater and measure straight down. Do not measure the edge of the work.
Directions
Yoke
Ch 47 (51, 55, 57, 61, 65)
Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and each ch across. 46 (50, 54, 56, 60, 64) sts
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc.
First increase: ch 1, *sc, inc; rep from * to end of row.69 (75, 81, 84, 90, 96) stsSc as many rows as needed until yoke height measures 1.5 (1.75, 2, 2.25, 2.5, 2.75) inches, ending with an even number of rows.
Second increase: Ch 1, *2sc, inc; rep from * to end of row.92 (100, 108, 112, 120, 128) sts
Sc as many rows as needed until yoke height measures 2.75 (3, 3.25, 3.5, 3.75, 4.25) inches, ending with an even number of rows.
Third increase: Ch 1, *3sc, inc; rep from * to end of row.115(125, 135, 140, 150, 160) sts
Sizes 3M, 6M, and 12M only: Ch 1, sc until 1 st remains, inc in last st. 116 (126, 136, 140, 150, 160) sts
All other sizes: Ch 1, sc in ea st.
Bead Stitch Row (all sizes): Ch 2
(counts as first st), sk 2 sc, dc in next st, work Puff St in st skipped
(crossing over dc you just made), *sk 1 sc, dc in next st, work Puff St in st
skipped; rep from * across until 1 st remains, dc in last st.
Yoke Finishing:
Row 1: Ch 2 (counts as first st), sk
1st dc, hdc in ea puff st and dc across, hdc in top of ch 2. 116
(126, 136, 140, 150, 160) sts
Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as first st), sk
1st hdc, hdc in ea st across, hdc in top of ch 2.
Sleeve separation:
Ch 1, 17 (18, 20, 21, 22, 24) sc,
ch 3
sk 23 (25, 27, 28, 30, 32) sts,
36 (40, 42, 42, 46, 48) sc,
ch 3
sk 23 (25, 27, 28, 30, 32) sts,
17 (18, 20, 21, 22, 24) sc. Do not tie off.
Body
We will now be working the body only, saving the sleeves for later. Continue
to turn at the end of each row. Ch 1 at the beginning of a row does not count as a stitch. To measure
sweater length, turn sweater face down and lay flat. Measure with ruler
straight down from top of back neck to working row.
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in each sc and in
each ch st. 76 (82, 88, 90, 96, 102) sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, 20sc, inc in next st,
sc in remaining sts. 77 (83, 89, 91, 97, 103) sc.
Texture Stitch Section
Row 1: Ch 1, sl st in first sc, *hdc
in next st, sl st in next st; rep from * to end of row, ending with sl st in
last sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in first sl st, *sl
st in next hdc, hdc in next sl st; rep from * to end of row.
Row 3: Ch 1, sl st in first hdc, *hdc
in next st, sl st in next hdc; rep from * to end of row.
Repeat rows 2-3 until total sweater length (measured from top of yoke) reaches 6
(6.5, 7, 7.5, 7.5, 8) inches, ending with a row 2.
Texture Stitch
Section
Row 1: Ch 1, sl st in first hdc,
*hdc in next st, sl st in next st; rep from * to end of row, ending with sl st
in last st.
Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in first sl st, *sl
st in next hdc, hdc in next sl st; rep from * to end of row.
Row 3: Ch 1, sl st in first hdc,
*hdc in next st, sl st in next hdc; rep from * to end of row.
Repeat rows 2-3 until total sweater length (measured from top of yoke) reaches 9
(10, 10.5, 11, 11.5, 12.5) inches, ending with a row 2. Tie off, weave in loose ends.
Bead Stitch Section
Row 1: Ch 2 (counts as first st), sk 1st hdc, hdc in next sl st; hdc in each hdc and sl st to end of row.
Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as first st), sk 1st hdc, hdc in each hdc, hdc in top of ch 2.
Row 3 (bead st): Ch 2 (counts as first st), sk 2 hdc, dc in next st, work Puff St in st skipped (crossing over dc you just made), *sk 1 hdc, dc in next st, work Puff St in st skipped; rep from * across until 2 st remains, dc in last hdc and top of ch 2.
Row 4: Ch 2 (counts as first st), sk 1st dc, hdc in next dc; hdc in ea puff st and dc across, hdc in top of ch 2.
Row 5: Ch 2 (counts as first st), sk 1st hdc, hdc in ea st across, hdc in top of ch 2.
Neck Finishing
Row 1: Tie slip knot on
hook and insert hook in top corner ch st of sweater neckline. Pull up a loop
and sl st to join. *Hdc in next ch st, sl st in next ch st; rep from * in each
ch st across neckline, turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sl st in each hdc and
hdc in each sl st across. Tie off, weave in loose ends.
Button Loop
Join yarn just above bead stitch row of yoke on wearer’s left. Ch 3 to form a loop. Attach loop with sl st one row above. Tie off. Weave in loose ends. Sew button on opposite side.
For sleeveless version, you are all done! For ¾ length sleeves, continue here:
Download the PDF on Etsy or Ravelry.
Sleeve
Note: Continue to turn at the end of each row.
Tie slip knot onto hook and join yarn to armpit of sleeve in the center of the chain sts.
Row 1: Sc in 2 chain sts and each st around sleeve opening, ending with 1 or 2 sc in last ch st to ensure you have the correct st count. 27 (29, 31, 31, 33, 35) sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in ea sc.
Texture Stitch
Section
Row 1: Ch 1, sl st in first sc, *hdc
in next st, sl st in next st; rep from * to end of row, ending with sl st in
last sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in first sl st, *sl
st in next hdc, hdc in next sl st; rep from * to end of row.
Row 3: Ch 1, sl st in first hdc,
*hdc in next st, sl st in next hdc; rep from * to end of row.
Repeat rows 2-3 until total sleeve length (measured from row 1) reaches 1.5 (1.5, 1.5,
2, 2, 3) inches, ending with a row 2.
Bead Stitch Section
Row 1: Ch 2 (counts as first st), sk
1st hdc, hdc in next sl st; hdc in each hdc and sl st to end of row.
Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as first st), sk
1st hdc, hdc in each hdc, hdc in top of ch 2.
Row 3 (bead st): Ch 2 (counts as
first st), sk 2 hdc, dc in next st, work Puff St in st skipped (crossing over
dc you just made), *sk 1 hdc, dc in next st, work Puff St in st skipped; rep
from * across until 2 st remains, dc in last hdc and top of ch 2.
Row 4: Ch 2 (counts as first st), sk
1st dc, hdc in next dc; hdc in ea puff st and dc across, hdc in top
of ch 2.
Row 5: Ch 2 (counts as first st), sk
1st hdc, hdc in ea st across, hdc in top of ch 2.
Texture
Stitch Section
Row 1: Ch 1, sl st in first hdc,
*hdc in next st, sl st in next st; rep from * to end of row, ending with sl st
in last st.
Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in first sl st, *sl
st in next hdc, hdc in next sl st; rep from * to end of row.
Row 3: Ch 1, sl st in first hdc,
*hdc in next st, sl st in next hdc; rep from * to end of row.
Repeat rows 2-3 until total sleeve length reaches 5 (5, 5.5, 5.5, 6, 8) inches,
ending with a row 2.
Tie off, leaving a long tail for seaming. Join
sleeve seam with tapestry needle and whip or ladder stitch. Tie off, weave
in loose ends.
Repeat for the other sleeve.
Blocking Instructions (optional):
Blocking is a great way to give your sweater a more refined appearance, great for gift giving! Spray sweater with water until it is slightly damp. Lay flat on a blocking board or other soft surface and gently stretch sweater slightly (about ½ inch in every direction). Pin in place as you stretch. Blocking boards and T pins work great for this but if you don’t have those, you can use several layers of towels and regular sewing pins.
Download the PDF on Etsy or Ravelry.
You’re all done! I hope you enjoyed this pattern!
Need a sweater pattern for older kids? Try the Rylan Sweater for Big Kids and Teens!
Great pattern, excellent instructions can’t thank you enough for free pattern especially at this time of isolation. Keeping me occupied creating for my 9 month old granddaughter.
This was my first attempt at a sweater! Your video was so helpful and I enjoyed every minute of making it. It was my quarantine project and I cannot thank you enough!
Hello! I saw this pattern and fell in love! How do I adjust it for 5T/6T?
I’m glad you like it, Alicia! I would measure her chest to see if the 4T size would fit. You can always add length to the body and sleeves.
Hello, just wanted to say thank you for sharing this pattern. I whipped up 3 so far for a homeless shelter full of expecting young ladies. Oh and I need to mention I’ve NEVER made baby clothing before just blankets and hats. This was not difficult and your video DEFINITELY helped the written instructions.
Thanks so much Jen for sharing your Aunalie Sweater pattern! Your video tutorial was so helpful and the sweater turned out perfectly for my granddaughter!!
This is so beautiful, many thanks i really enjoying all the new stitches.
Hi, I made this in a size 2T for my petite 4 yo and it came out gorgeous. I used the same yarn you used and had plenty left over because I didn’t add sleeves. Thank you so much for this pattern. I’m planning to make it for my older niece (9yo). Hope I’m able to modify it.
Just FYI – in the body part of the pattern above, the two texture stitch sections are together followed by the bead stitch section. I believe the bead stitch part is meant to be before the second texture stitch section.